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CoolCroco user manual - by Ahmet Yüksek

CoolCroco user manual

CoolCroco decodes a whole folder to display resolution on background workers and keeps it in RAM. After the first pass, moving through a shoot in either direction is instant - nothing is re-decoded, nothing is flushed. Everything here is built around that: look, decide, press one key, move on.

Covers CoolCroco 2.0.0 · Windows, macOS and Linux

Installing

Windows

The Microsoft Store build is the easy one: verified by Microsoft, one click, and it keeps itself updated. The standalone installer from the download page works just as well, but Windows SmartScreen may say the publisher is unknown - there is no code-signing certificate behind it yet. Choose More info, then Run anyway. The installer needs no administrator rights and can add a desktop shortcut and Open with → CoolCroco for image files.

macOS

Open the .dmg and drag CoolCroco to Applications. On first launch, right-click the app and choose Open. If macOS says it is damaged, that is only Apple's quarantine flag: open Terminal, type xattr -cr followed by a space, drag the app onto the Terminal window and press Enter. It opens normally after that.

Linux

The AppImage needs no install. Make it executable - chmod +x, or right-click → Properties → Allow executing - then double-click it.

How much memory it uses: CoolCroco claims 90% of system RAM, kept between 4 GB and total minus 8 GB - roughly 56 GB on a 64 GB machine, roughly 8 GB on 16 GB. That budget is shared between the display cache, the full-resolution cache and thumbnails, and the figure is printed on the status line at startup.

Opening photos

Ctrl+O Open image files. This is the only picker that shows thumbnails, so it doubles as a browser: pick one photo to open its whole folder positioned on that photo, or select several to open just that set.
Ctrl+Shift+O Open a folder, when you already know which one you want.
Drag and drop Drop images or a folder anywhere on the window.
From the file manager Double-click a registered image type, or use Open with → CoolCroco. Files opened while CoolCroco is already running join the gallery you have open. Right-clicking a photo or a folder in Windows Explorer also offers Open in a new CoolCroco window, for a second shoot beside the one you are culling rather than instead of it.

The window sizes itself to the first photo it shows, so a set of portrait frames opens in a portrait window rather than a letterboxed one.

A narrow portrait CoolCroco window showing a blue car on a Sicilian street
Three files picked in the open dialog, opened as a set of three - the window took the shape of the first one.

What it opens

RAW from every major brand through LibRaw - Sony, Canon, Nikon, Fujifilm, Olympus, Panasonic, Pentax, Leica, Hasselblad, Phase One, Sigma, Kodak, Minolta, Mamiya, Leaf, Epson and Samsung - plus JPEG, PNG, TIFF, WebP, BMP and the HEIC files an iPhone shoots by default. Straight from the card, no conversion. SVG drawings open too, drawn at a size worth looking at rather than at whatever the file happens to declare.

The window

The title bar carries the file name and your position in the shoot. Top right are two controls: a folder button that opens files, and the menu button - the same menu you get by right-clicking anywhere on the photo.

Along the bottom, the detail bar reads out the photo you are on:

Name File name, with a gold star in front while the photo is on the clipboard
Position Which photo of how many
Zoom Scale against the photo's real pixels - 100.0% is true 1:1
Pixels Native dimensions, for example 5,184×3,464
Print size What that measures on paper at your chosen resolution
File size Megabytes on disk
Date Modified date, marked (m)

The bar is laid out in columns of a fixed width, so each fact keeps its own place from photograph to photograph and you can watch one number change without chasing it along the bar. Anything too long for its column ends in … and shows in full when you hover it - and hovering the file name shows the photo's full path, which the bar has never had room to print.

Hovering the ? button in the toolbar lists every key, built from your own bindings, so it tells the truth after you rebind something.

Below the photo sits the filmstrip of thumbnails. Drag the divider above it to make it taller or shorter, drag its scrollbar or flick it to travel through a long shoot, and click any thumbnail to jump there.

G gives the whole folder at once: the strip fills the window as a grid, the photograph steps aside, and everything you do to a photograph still works - rate, approve, reject, undo, right-click for the same menu. It is the same filmstrip, so there is no second list of photographs that could disagree with the first. G again brings the photograph back, and so does double-clicking a frame.

A slider appears at the bottom right while the grid is up, and Ctrl and the wheel do the same thing with the pointer over the sheet: bigger cards and fewer of them, or smaller cards and the whole shoot in one screen. Where you leave it is remembered, because how many photographs you want at once is a way of working rather than a setting. The frame you were on is kept in view as the cards resize.

The strip does not have to live at the bottom. Shift+T walks it round the window - left, top, right, bottom, and round again - and Ctrl+Shift+T walks it back. Down a side is the shape to use for an upright shoot: a portrait frame on a wide screen leaves a third of the window empty on either side, and a strip down the side takes room that was doing nothing.

A RAW photo of a cat at 100 percent with the filmstrip and detail bar visible
A 599-file folder at 100%: the frame you are on is outlined in the filmstrip, and the detail bar confirms true 1:1.

The folder browser

The button at the far left of the toolbar, or Ctrl+B, opens a folder tree down the left-hand side. Click a folder and CoolCroco opens it - one click, the way Bridge and Lightroom do.

What it is most useful for is the folders CoolCroco itself makes. A cull fills Approved, Rejected and Approved\5Stars right beside the shoot, and until now the only way back into them was a file dialog. They are sitting there in the tree.

Drag the divider to resize it; it remembers its width. It opens closed every time, because the photo is what the window is for. The tree follows along, so it always shows where you are however you got there.

The shortcuts above the tree

A tree can only be walked down from a drive letter, and the three folders anybody actually opens are nowhere near the top of one. So above it sits a short list, in the order you reach for them.

Favourites Folders you pinned yourself. Right-click any folder in the tree and choose Add to favourites; right-click it again, in the tree or in the list, to take it off. A new one goes on the end, so the list keeps the shape you have learned. The section is not there at all until you pin something.
Places Home, Desktop, Documents, Downloads, Pictures and Videos, as your computer knows them - so a machine running in German lists Schreibtisch, and a Windows machine whose Pictures folder has been moved into OneDrive lists the one that is really there.
Recent The last few folders you opened, newest first, without going to a menu for them - going back to yesterday's shoot is the most repeated thing anybody does here. A folder you have pinned is not listed twice.
Locations Every disk and card that is plugged in, by name: a card reader shows the card's own label, which is the row you are looking for. This is the section that changes while you watch, so it is re-read every time you open a folder.

Clicking a row opens that folder, exactly as clicking one in the tree does, and the row you are inside stays highlighted - the deepest one, so a shoot in Pictures highlights Pictures rather than Home. A hairline separates each section from the next, and one more separates the whole list from the tree.

The tree tidies itself. Open a folder and the branches you are not in fold away, leaving the way down to where you are and nothing else. What stays open is the folder you just opened - its Approved and Rejected are the reason the tree is here - and everything above it, so the row never folds away from under the click that opened it.

The CoolCroco window with the folder panel open down the left-hand side: pinned favourites and places above, the folder tree below
The shortcuts sit above the tree, and the folders the cull made are sitting under it - one click back into Approved.

Right-click a folder

Open including subfolders Pick how far down to go - 1, 2, 3 levels, or all the way - and everything under the folder opens as one gallery. This is how you look at a shoot together with its Approved and Rejected. The filmstrip draws a gold seam where one folder ends and the next begins, with the folder name beside it.
Open in a new window Go and look at another folder without giving up the one you are part way through.
Set as desktop background Windows only reads JPEG, PNG and BMP, so a RAW is written out as a JPEG first, into Pictures\CoolCroco Wallpapers, named after the frame. Nothing in that folder is ever deleted.
Copy image · Copy shooting settings Copy image puts the photograph itself on the clipboard rather than the file - for a RAW it is the only way to get the picture out without exporting one. Copy shooting settings gives you the body, lens, focal length, shutter, aperture and ISO as text.
Add to favourites Pin the folder to the list above the tree, where it stays until you take it off. Offered right where you are already pointing at the folder you want kept.
New folder… Make a subfolder to file things into by hand. Renaming and deleting folders are deliberately not offered - one slip in a tree is not worth the shortcut.

Opening a whole tree is a big ask: CoolCroco stops at 100,000 photos and tells you it stopped, so a stray all the way down on a drive cannot quietly turn into a gallery nobody can cull. Clicking a folder never writes anything and never clears your undo history.

Moving through a shoot

PgDn Space Next photo
PgUp Previous photo
Home · End First · last photo
G Grid - the whole folder at once, and back
T Hide or show the filmstrip
Shift+T · Ctrl+Shift+T Move the filmstrip round the window, and back the other way
F Fullscreen, filmstrip kept
F11 Fullscreen, image only
Esc Leave fullscreen - or quit, if you are not in it

Navigation stops at the ends of the folder. The first time you walk off one, CoolCroco asks whether it should loop round to the other end and remembers your answer. A cold folder shows each photo's embedded preview immediately and sharpens to the real decode a moment later, so there is never a black frame to wait through.

A portrait photo of the Amalfi coast filling the window with the filmstrip hidden
Filmstrip hidden with T. The detail bar stays, so you keep the print size and position readout.

Zoom, pan and sticky zoom

Wheel Zoom towards the cursor
Double-click Toggle native 100% at the cursor, and back to fit
Drag Pan the zoomed photo
Ctrl+0 · 1 · 2 Fit · actual size (100%) · fill
Z Sticky zoom

Past fit, CoolCroco decodes the photo again at full resolution, so 1:1 really is 1:1 - which is what you want when you are checking focus on a RAW file.

Sticky zoom is for bursts. Zoom into the eye of the first frame, press Z, then arrow through the sequence: every frame of the same size holds the same crop, at full resolution, so you can compare the same detail across ten shots without touching the mouse.

Sorting

Menu → Sort orders the gallery by name, date modified or file size, ascending or descending, and remembers your choice. Star-rated photos always group at the front of the filmstrip - five stars first, down to unrated - whatever sort you pick; the sort orders photos within each of those groups.

The Sort menu: Name ticked, Date modified, File size, then Ascending ticked and Descending
The sort, and the direction, in one menu. Star groups sit in front of it - the sort orders the photos inside each group.

Speed and memory

CoolCroco keeps photographs in RAM. That is the whole reason moving through a shoot is instant rather than a wait per frame, and it is why the app asks for a large share of the memory on the machine. Two things in the window are about that.

The green line

A hairline runs along the outer edge of the filmstrip - under it when the strip is along the bottom, outboard of it when the strip is down a side, and along the bottom of the window when the strip is hidden. It fills as the folder is read into memory, so you can see at a glance whether the next frame will appear at once or take a moment.

What counts as full depends on the read-ahead setting. Normally the line measures the neighbourhood - as far either side of the photo on screen as the memory can hold - so a full line means flipping around where you are working is instant, whether or not the rest of a huge card has been read.

The end of the filmstrip with a green hairline running full width beneath it
Full, so everything around this frame is already in memory - moving either way from here costs nothing.

The speedometer

At the right-hand end of the status bar, and in Menu → Settings → Preview quality and memory for anyone who never noticed it. It has two dials, and it turns blue whenever either of them is off its default, so a folder behaving unusually explains itself.

The speedometer menu: preview quality, read ahead, and Free memory now
Both dials in one menu, and a line at the foot to say what none of it changes: 100% zoom always shows the full-resolution file.

Preview quality has five steps, from Lowest to Highest, and sits on High. At the two lowest steps a RAW is read from the preview the camera wrote inside it - a few hundred kilobytes instead of the whole file. Middle and High develop the RAW at half size, which is sharp at any sensible fit on a 4K screen. Highest develops it in full.

It matters most on a slow SD card or card reader, where the time a photograph takes is the time it takes to read off the card. Zoom to 100% and you get the full-resolution file at every one of these settings - nothing on this dial decides how sharp your photographs are, only how quickly they turn up.

The second thing a smaller preview buys is memory. A photograph at half the width costs a quarter of the RAM, so far more of the shoot stays in memory at once and the green line goes further on the same machine.

What it is costing

Beside the speedometer, in dim grey, sits CPU and RAM. The processor figure counts every core on the machine, the way Task Manager does. The memory figure is what is really resident - mostly the photographs being held. Both are a tick box on the speedometer menu if you would rather have the room back.

The right-hand end of the status bar showing CPU and RAM beside the speedometer
Hovering the speedometer gives the same thing in words, and keeps counting while you look at it.

Read ahead is either Neighbourhood or Whole folder. Neighbourhood is the default: read as far either side of the photo on screen as memory allows, then stop. Whole folder reads everything, which is worth having when the shoot fits, because then nothing ever waits. Dropping the preview quality is what makes a big card fit.

Getting the memory back

A folder you have left is let go of on its own, half a minute after you open the next one. Opening the wrong folder and coming straight back inside that costs nothing; a shoot you have finished with does not sit in memory for the rest of the afternoon.

CoolCroco watches the machine, not just itself. Once about three quarters of your RAM is in use by anything - Lightroom opening beside it, an export running - it starts handing photographs back, taking the frames furthest from the one you are looking at first and never the ones either side of it. It gives up a slice at a time, so a program that needs memory for a moment does not cost you the folder, and it stops as soon as the machine has room again.

Free memory now, on the speedometer menu, does not wait and does not spare the folder you are in. The label says how much it would hand back. The photograph on screen stays exactly where it is, and the frames either side of it are read again as you move - so it costs you the green line and nothing else. Use it when something else on the machine needs the room.

Star ratings

Press 1 to 5 to rate the photo you are looking at; 0 clears the rating. The view moves on to the next photo by itself, and the one you just rated files into its star group at the front of the strip, where its stars show under the thumbnail.

A filmstrip of wildlife thumbnails, the first five carrying gold star ratings - three at five stars, then four, then three - grouped ahead of the unrated frames
Rated photos gather at the head of the filmstrip, best first. The rest of the shoot keeps its own order behind them.

Ratings are written as XMP sidecar files - IMG_0001.xmp next to IMG_0001.ARW - using the same xmp:Rating field Lightroom, Bridge and Capture One read and write. Rate here and the stars are already there when you import; stars set there show up here. The photo itself is never rewritten, so a proprietary RAW is never at risk.

Rate and file, in one keystroke

Hold Shift with a rating - Shift+1 through Shift+5 - and the photo gets that star and moves straight into an Approved\5Stars folder (or 4, 3, 2, 1) beside where it lives now. The rating travels with it, and the view moves on.

Use plain 1–5 when the stars are notes to come back to, and Shift+1–5 when the star is the decision: a shoot sorts itself into star folders as you go, with nothing left to move afterwards.

Ctrl+Z undoes the whole thing at once - the photo comes back to its folder carrying whatever rating it had before you pressed the key. It works on a photo that already has that rating too: pressing Shift+3 on a three-star photo is a request to move it, and it moves.

Filing a whole star group

Right-click any rated thumbnail in the filmstrip and you get two actions for its entire rating tier: move all of them to the matching Approved folder, or copy them there instead - the originals stay exactly where they are, keeping their stars, so you can assemble a print set without emptying the folder it came from. Both are a single undo, and copying the same group twice never overwrites: the second copy lands beside the first.

Picking out a group

Ctrl-click thumbnails in the filmstrip to pick out several, Shift-click to take a run of them, or press Ctrl+A to pick out every one - in the strip or the grid view, and among the frames of the sequences and duplicates window. A plain click still just moves to that photo, so nothing changes until you reach for a modifier.

Right-click the group and everything applies to all of it at once - rotate left or right, rate, approve, reject, or put the lot on the clipboard. Each one counts as a single Ctrl+Z: turning twelve frames costs one undo, not twelve. The group survives the action, so a mixed album can be worked through in one motion.

The keyboard follows the group too. With one picked out, 1 to 5 rates all of it, 0 clears all of it, A and X file all of it, R and Shift+R turn all of it, and Ctrl+Shift+C puts all of it on the clipboard. Delete asks once for the whole group rather than once per photo. With no group picked out, every key does what it always did.

Five thumbnails outlined in the filmstrip with a context menu naming five photos
Five picked out. Every action names the number it will affect, and each counts as one Ctrl+Z.

Filing a whole star group

Right-click any rated thumbnail in the filmstrip and you get two actions for its entire rating tier: move all of them to Approved\nStars, so they leave the folder and the gallery, or copy all of them there instead, leaving the originals exactly where they are with their stars intact.

Both are a single undo. Undoing a copy removes the copies and leaves the originals alone. Copying the same group twice never overwrites: the second copy lands beside the first with a number added to its name.

A thumbnail context menu offering to move or copy three five-star photos
Both entries name the tier and the count, so you can see what a click is about to move before it moves it.

Approve, reject, delete - and undo

A Move the photo into an Approved subfolder
X Move it into a Rejected subfolder
Delete Move it to the Recycle Bin - this one asks first
Ctrl+Z Undo the last thing you did to a file
Ctrl+Shift+Z Redo it

Approve and reject are deliberately non-destructive: the subfolder is created next to the photo and the file is moved, not copied or deleted. Its rating sidecar and any EXIF backup travel with it. A and X sit next to each other so one hand can cull while the other holds the coffee.

Undo steps back through everything you did to files in this session: ratings, approve and reject, rate-and-file, group moves and copies, rotations, and EXIF removal. A photo that has left the folder by other means - you moved it yourself, or emptied the subfolder - is skipped rather than failing loudly.

The CoolCroco right-click menu with the Rotate submenu open
The right-click menu. Culling actions stay at the top level; everything reached occasionally sits behind one hover.

The clipboard

The clipboard is a running selection you paste somewhere else.

Ctrl+Shift+C Add the current photo to the set, or take it out again. Photos in the set carry a gold star on their thumbnail.
Ctrl+V In Explorer or Finder: drops every file you collected. The clipboard is rewritten each time you add one, so it always holds the whole set.
Ctrl+Shift+R Empty the set and clear the clipboard
Ctrl+L Copy the current photo's full path as text

Dragging photos out

You can pull a photo straight out of CoolCroco and into whatever is behind it - Photoshop to open it, a browser upload box to post it, an email, a folder in Explorer. No copying to a staging folder first, and no clipboard in between.

Drag the photo on screen Whenever it is not zoomed in. Zoomed past fit the drag still pans, because that is what you need it for while you are checking focus.
Drag a thumbnail across the filmstrip and out of it Up or down off a strip lying along the top or bottom, sideways off one standing up the side. Dragging along the strip still flicks it, so the two never get in each other's way.

With a group picked out, dragging any of it carries all of it, and the group stays picked out afterwards. Drag a thumbnail that is not in the group and only that one photo goes.

The drop is always a copy. Nothing you drag out can move or delete the original, whatever the program you drop it on would normally do - your photos stay in the folder you are still culling. If a drop does nothing at all, check whether the other program is running as administrator while CoolCroco is not: Windows refuses drags between the two without saying so.

Timelapses, bursts and brackets

Analyse → Find sequences looks through the shoot for frames that were taken as one thing - a timelapse on an intervalometer, a burst off the continuous drive, a bracketed set - and offers to file each one into its own subfolder.

A run is recognised by its interval and by the camera staying put: same body, same lens, same focal length, same aperture. A twist of the zoom ends a run, because that is a different shot. Anything faster than about two seconds is called a burst rather than a timelapse, because at that speed the one-second timestamp a camera writes cannot show that an interval was regular.

Exposure is allowed to change. A day-to-night timelapse deliberately ramps ISO and shutter across the sequence, so a slow slide is expected and the run survives it - the description says exposure ramping when it happens. Somebody changing the settings by more than two stops in one frame does end a run.

Tick the runs you agree with, then Move or Copy. Every run goes into its own folder - two runs, two folders, however many frames the button says. Copy is there for a burst you want gathered up without taking it out of the shoot. Either way, however many folders it fills, it is a single Ctrl+Z.

The Find sequences window with a burst and a timelapse found in one folder
Two runs found in one folder, each with the name it would be filed under. The timelapse ramped its exposure across the run and kept its place in it.

When it has drawn the lines in the wrong place

The detector is working from what the camera wrote down, and you were there. Two things let you overrule it, and neither one touches a file: drag one row onto another to join two runs into one, or highlight a row and click the gap between two frames in the strip below to cut one run in two. Ctrl+Z takes back one step at a time, and Back to what was found returns the whole table.

Naming the folders

The Folder name box builds every name at once from a pattern. The default is kind, date and time - Timelapse 2026-08-14 20-47 - named for when it was shot, so the name still means something a year later. The other tokens are first, last, count and your own word. Type over any single name in the table and the pattern leaves that one alone from then on.

The frames of a run can be dragged out as a whole: press anywhere on the strip and drag, and every frame goes together, straight into Sequator, Starry Landscape Stacker or whatever you stack in. Nothing moves on your card - no folder is made, no copy is written.

Finding duplicates

Analyse → Find duplicates gathers the frames that are the same photograph and shows them as a group with one picked out to keep - the six you shot as the light kept changing, the file that got copied back onto the card, the frame you re-shot because the first one was soft.

Each row keeps one frame and rejects the rest. Right-click a frame for Keep and Reject to change which, as many as you like, or right-click the row for Keep all and Reject all. Then reject or delete the others from under the table, or move whole groups into folders and decide later. Whichever you press is a single Ctrl+Z.

The keeper is a suggestion, not a verdict. One frame of each group is offered, and the window is where you change the answer. Nothing here decides which frame of six you wanted.

What it compares is the arrangement of light in the frame, not what the frame is of: each photograph is reduced to sixty-four bits recording which parts of it are brighter than which. Because that is relative brightness it is blind to exposure and white balance, so two frames a stop apart still land together - which is the point, as that is exactly the pair you are trying to choose between. It reads the pictures themselves, so it needs no model download and works whether or not you ever set up searching.

A tripod left running is not a duplicate. Frames also have to have been taken within two minutes of each other. A camera shooting all night from one spot produces near-identical frames that are a timelapse rather than a set of duplicates, and there is a finder for those above. A file copied back onto the card needs no exemption: it carries the capture time of the frame it was copied from, so the gap is zero however long ago you copied it.

There is no Copy here, and no joining or cutting of groups. Copying a set of duplicates would leave you holding the duplicates and a second set of them. And a group has no boundary to argue with the way the end of a timelapse does: two frames either are the same photograph or they are not, so if one of them does not belong the answer is to keep it, not to cut the group in half.

Filtering the gallery

The funnel button beside the search box, or Ctrl+F, narrows the folder down to part of itself - one lens, one ISO, one afternoon, the five-star frames, the portraits. The two sit together because they are the same question asked two ways: narrow this folder by what the camera recorded, or by what is in the picture.

Every box lists what this folder actually contains, with how many photos carry it. There is nothing to type and nothing to guess at, and a field the folder has only one value for is left out - filtering by the only camera present is a control that cannot do anything. The count at the bottom updates as you go.

The filter window listing the lenses, ISO values and ranges the folder contains
Nothing to type. Every value in it came out of this folder, with the number of photos carrying it - and the count at the foot says what is left.

Photos that cannot answer are not shown. Ask for ISO 6400 and a file with no EXIF at all stays hidden, because it is not known to be ISO 6400 - but every box offers Unknown as a choice of its own when some files have nothing to say, so you can go and look at them.

A filtered gallery always says so - in the title bar and in the detail bar - and the funnel button lights up while it lasts. While a filter is on, everything works on what you can see and only that: rating a star group, rejecting a selection, filing a whole tier all stop at the edge of the gallery in front of you.

Keywords, copyright and the rest

Ctrl+I opens File info - the same set of fields Adobe Bridge shows: title, description, keywords, creator and contact details, location, copyright and usage terms, credit, instructions, job identifier.

Where it gets written

JPEG, TIFF, DNG, PNG Inside the file, so Windows Explorer's Tags column fills in and the keywords travel with a copy
RAW and HEIC An XMP sidecar beside it - rewriting a proprietary RAW container risks the original for no gain, which is the same split Bridge and Lightroom make

Your star ratings live in the same place - inside a JPEG, in the sidecar for a RAW - so a file never has its keywords in one place and its stars in another.

Editing several at once

With a group picked out in the filmstrip, File info edits all of it. A field the photos disagree on is marked as mixed and is left exactly as it is unless you type in it - so setting the city on twelve photos does not flatten their twelve different titles.

File info open over three photos with a mixed title field and shared keywords
Three photos at once: what they share is shown, what they disagree on is marked mixed and left alone.

Keywords have three modes. Add, the default, puts yours alongside what each photo already has; Replace swaps them; Remove takes yours out. Templates saves a set of fields - your copyright line and contact details - to apply with two clicks. The whole edit, however many photos, is a single Ctrl+Z.

Metadata → Import from JSON takes a file produced by your own tooling, shows you what it would change and what it could not find, and only then writes. Export to JSON writes the same format back out, so metadata can round-trip through a script.

Undo and redo

Ctrl+Z steps back through everything you did to files in this session, and Ctrl+Shift+Z puts it back: ratings, approve and reject, rate-and-file, group moves and copies, rotations, and EXIF removal. Each undo reports what it just reversed.

A photo that has left the folder by other means - you moved it in Explorer, or emptied the subfolder yourself - is simply skipped rather than failing loudly.

Rotating for print

R turns the photo a quarter clockwise, Shift+R anticlockwise. The file on disk is turned, not just the view.

Menu → Rotate also has the pass a print run needs. All landscape and All portrait turn only the photos facing the wrong way, so a mixed folder comes out uniform for the paper feed - photos already facing the right way are left untouched. Revert rotations puts the whole folder back the way it arrived, after the run.

Pixels really move, because print machines ignore the EXIF orientation flag - flipping only the flag would fail exactly where it matters. JPEGs are re-encoded with their own original quantisation tables, so a rotate costs well under 1% of file size rather than visible quality; and where only the orientation flag is wrong, as on every phone shot, nothing is re-encoded at all. What changed is recorded in a single CoolCroco-rotations.json per folder - one small file, not one per photo - which is what makes Revert rotations work even after you close the app.

Raw exposure

Menu → Settings → Raw exposure. Raw files only: a JPEG arrives already rendered, and so does the small JPEG the camera writes inside every raw - which is what the filmstrip shows you.

Closer to the camera The default. A fixed lift towards your camera's own rendering - the same curve on every frame, so two shots taken a second apart still look like two shots taken a second apart. The highlights roll off instead of clipping.
As shot The absence of an opinion: the exposure you took, developed and left alone. A frame you deliberately underexposed stays dark.
Brighten each photo to suit Lets LibRaw choose a gain per photograph. Fine by daylight and wrong on anything deliberately dark: on a night sky the brightest pixels are dim stars, so the frame is scaled until the stars are white and the sky comes up grey with them.

The colour behind the photo

Menu → Settings → Background, as a row of swatches. Black is right for judging a bright frame and the worst surround for a dark one - a photo's own blacks disappear into it and every shadow reads as crushed, so you reject frames that were fine.

Charcoal Photoshop's own canvas default, near enough. Neither it nor Lightroom defaults to pure black, and this is why: a little light in the surround steadies your eye between frames.
Dark grey · Mid grey Photoshop's Dark Gray and Medium Gray. Mid grey is roughly the neutral a print studio appraises against, and the one to reach for when a frame is mostly shadow.
White Not decoration - it is the only way to see what a photograph will look like on paper, which is a different picture from the same file on black.

Weighted towards the dark end on purpose: the rest of this window is nearly black, so a bright surround has black chrome around it and reads as a mistake rather than a choice. Your choice is remembered.

Print size

Menu → Settings → Print size sets the resolution and unit used for the paper measurement in the detail bar. A lab working at 300 dpi in centimetres and someone preparing web images at 72 dpi want different numbers from the same file, so this is set once and remembered. Untick Show in the status bar to hide it again.

The Print size dialog with 300 dpi and centimetres selected
The preview line uses the photo you are on, so you can see the effect of a change before accepting it.

Properties and EXIF

Alt+Enter opens everything the file knows about itself: name, folder, type, pixel dimensions and megapixels, print size, bytes, modified and created dates - then the camera block: body, lens, aperture, shutter, ISO, focal length, exposure compensation and the moment it was taken.

The image properties window listing dimensions, dates and the camera block
Properties for a Sony RAW. Where an operating system cannot report a true creation time, that row shows a dash rather than a fabricated date.

Properties and EXIF

Alt+Enter opens everything the file knows about itself: name, folder, type, pixel dimensions and megapixels, print size, bytes, modified and created dates - then the camera block: body, lens, aperture, shutter, ISO, focal length, exposure compensation and the moment it was taken.

The Image properties dialog showing dimensions, print size and a full camera block
Properties for a Sony RAW. Where the operating system cannot report a true creation time, that row shows a dash rather than a made-up date.

Removing EXIF data

Menu → EXIF data → Remove EXIF data. Tick what should go - GPS location, camera, lens and serial numbers, capture settings, date and time, software, artist and copyright - and it is stripped from the open photo. Groups the file does not carry are greyed out, so you can see at a glance whether a photo is even carrying its location.

The Remove EXIF data dialog with GPS location greyed out and four groups ticked
This photo has no GPS to remove. The backup tick is what makes the removal reversible later.
  • Pixels are never recompressed. Only the JPEG's EXIF segment is rewritten; the compressed image data is copied through byte for byte.
  • With the backup box ticked, the original EXIF is saved beside the photo. It travels with the file when you approve or reject, and goes to the Recycle Bin with it if you delete.
  • Recover EXIF data puts it back from that backup. Unlike undo, it still works on a photo you stripped days ago.
  • Don't show this dialog again makes later removals happen in one keystroke with the same choices. Bring the prompt back with Ask before removing EXIF in the same menu.

JPEG only, on purpose. RAW and TIFF are refused: rewriting a proprietary RAW container risks the original, and TIFF keeps its EXIF in the file's own directory, so removing tags would mean rewriting the whole image. The embedded preview thumbnail is always removed as well - it can still show the un-edited frame.

Opening in another app

Menu → Open in. The first time, pick your editor; it is remembered by name after that, and Change external editor swaps it. Give it a key in the shortcuts dialog and a photo goes to Lightroom or Photoshop with one press. Open with hands the photo to the system's own chooser for a one-off app, and L opens the photo's location - Explorer with the file selected, Finder on macOS, the containing folder on Linux. If another program rewrites a photo you have open, CoolCroco notices when you come back to the window and reloads it.

Opening in another app

Open in editor Menu → Open in. The first time, pick your editor; it is remembered by name after that. Give it a key in the shortcuts dialog and a photo goes to Lightroom or Photoshop with one press.
Open with… Hands the photo to Windows' own Open with chooser for a one-off app.
L Open the photo's location - Explorer on Windows with the file selected, Finder on macOS, the containing folder on Linux.

If another program rewrites a photo you have open, CoolCroco notices when you come back to the window and reloads it, so what you see is never a stale copy of a file you just edited elsewhere.

The CoolCroco menu: Open, Open folder and Recent folders at the top, then Rate, Approve, Reject and Move to Recycle Bin, then submenus for View, Rotate, Sort, Analyse, Open in, Copy and Metadata, with Settings, the user manual and About below
The whole menu. Everything the app does is here - the two toolbar buttons are the only permanent chrome, and the work is gathered into the submenus down the middle.

Making the keys yours

Menu → Settings → Keyboard shortcuts. Double-click an action, or select it and press F2, then press the combination you want. Esc cancels, Clear leaves an action with no key, and Restore Defaults puts everything back. Changes take effect immediately - there is no restart.

  • Actions with several keys - Next is the right arrow, PgDn, Down and Space - keep their alternates; only the first key changes.
  • The rating keys 1–5 and Shift+1–5 are fixed and cannot be reassigned or taken by something else.
  • A key already in use is refused the moment you press it, naming the action that has it.
  • Remove EXIF data, Recover EXIF data, Open with and Open in editor ship with no key at all - assign them here if you use them often.
A tooltip listing every keyboard shortcut, shown by hovering the question mark button in the toolbar
Hovering the ? button lists every shortcut without opening anything - and it reflects your rebinds, not the defaults.
The Keyboard shortcuts dialog listing actions and their keys
Rebound keys are shown in blue, so you can see at a glance what you have changed.

All keys

Key Action
PgDn Space Next photo (wraps around)
PgUp Previous photo
Home · End First · last photo
15 Star-rate the photo
0 Clear the rating
Shift+15 Rate, and move to the matching Approved star folder
A Approve - move to Approved
X Reject - move to Rejected
Delete Move to the Recycle Bin (asks first)
Ctrl+Z · Ctrl+Shift+Z Undo · redo
Ctrl+A Pick out every photo in the filmstrip or grid
Ctrl+Shift+C Add to or remove from the clipboard
Ctrl+Shift+R Clear the clipboard
Ctrl+L Copy the photo's path
R · Shift+R Rotate right · left
Ctrl+0 · 1 · 2 Fit · actual size (100%) · fill
Z Sticky zoom across frames
G Grid - the whole folder at once
T Show or hide the filmstrip
Shift+T · Ctrl+Shift+T Move the filmstrip round the window, and back the other way
Ctrl+B Show or hide the folder browser
Ctrl+F Filter the gallery
Ctrl+I File info: keywords, copyright, location
F · F11 Fullscreen · fullscreen, image only
Esc Leave fullscreen, otherwise quit
L Open the photo's location
Alt+Enter Properties, with EXIF
Ctrl+O · Ctrl+Shift+O Open files · open a folder
Ctrl+W · Ctrl+Q Quit

What CoolCroco writes, and where

Nothing is written inside your photos except when you explicitly rotate one or remove its EXIF. Everything else lives beside them:

IMG_0001.xmp The star rating, in the format Lightroom and Bridge already use
IMG_0001.exifbak The EXIF you removed, kept so it can be put back
CoolCroco-rotations.json One per folder: what was turned and which way, so a print run can be reverted
Approved\ Rejected\ Subfolders created next to your photos when you cull. Files are moved into them - never deleted.

Preferences - sort order, print size, your shortcut changes, the remembered editor - are stored per user, outside your photo folders.

Updates

The version from this website checks for a new release on startup and offers it; turn that off under Settings → Check for updates on startup. The Microsoft Store version updates through the Store. Menu → What's new shows what changed in each release.

Recommended: the Microsoft Store build. It's verified by Microsoft, installs in one click and stays updated - no SmartScreen warning.

Prefer the standalone installer? Windows SmartScreen may say the publisher is unknown - I haven't bought a code-signing certificate yet, so it flags it. It's safe: click “More info” → “Run anyway.”

1. Open the .dmg and drag CoolCroco into your Applications folder - drag the app icon inside the window, not the disk icon on the desktop, which only makes a 2 KB alias. Then eject the disk and open CoolCroco from Applications.

2. macOS will say “Not Opened - Apple could not verify…”. Click Done. Then open System Settings → Privacy & Security, scroll down to Security, and click “Open Anyway” next to CoolCroco. Confirm with Touch ID or your password, and it opens. Once, for good.

Pick the build for your Mac:

The AppImage needs no install. After downloading, make it executable - chmod +x CoolCroco-x86_64.AppImage (or right-click → Properties → Allow executing) - then double-click to run.